Cupcakes are more American than pie; yet they tap into nostalgia and delight that is virtually universal. Marie-Cecile fell in love red velvet while staying in Manhattan last year, and hasn’t had one since. Making cupcakes in France is more challenging than you might think, but not half as hard as finding them.
Marie-Cecile is my hostess in the Rhone countryside. She’s been serving me meals of tomatoes from her parents’ garden, crackly baguettes, super-local cheeses and exquisite wine. This is my chance to thank her: I’m going to teach her to make cupcakes!
But modifying an American cupcake recipe for a French kitchen is a multilayered challenge. We translate the ingredients, find substitutions for things that aren’t available, convert the measurements to metric, and cut the recipe in half. She has no idea what “baking soda” is until I look up the chemical name, “ah-ha! bicarbonate!” It’s much less common here than baking powder. We can only find red food dye in tiny bottles packaged with other colors. And buttermilk? As far as I can tell it’s not sold at all, so we sour fresh milk with a little vinegar.
With so many conversions, it would be really easy to change a quantity and not notice–until you bake the cakes and they fail. Marie-Cecile is already on the phone boasting to her family about the treats we’re making, while I secretly wring my hands and wish for success. Miraculously, they turn out beautifully on our first attempt! The recipe follows.
French Red Velvet Cupcakes
makes about 12
210 g flour
3.5 g sodium bicarbonate
23 g unsweetened cocoa
160 mL milk
15 mL cider vinegar
45 mL red food coloring
6 mL vanilla extract
90 g butter
200 g sugar
1 egg plus 1 yolk
Set your ingredients out to allow them to reach room temperature. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Prepare a muffin tin with cupcake liners, or use freestanding aluminum cups lined up on a cookie sheet.
Gently warm the milk until tepid, not hot. Add the vinegar, then the food coloring and vanilla.
Whisk together the flour, bicarbonate, cocoa and salt, eliminating any lumps.
Cream the butter and sugar together with an electric mixer until uniformly light and fluffy. If you are using a hand held mixer, this may take a while (5 to 10 minutes): be patient. The mixture will change texture and color. Then, add the egg and yolk and mix until smooth.
Stir in the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with two additions of the buttermilk mixture. Mix just until smooth.
Fill the cups about 2/3 full. Bake for 20 minutes, rotating once. Check with a toothpick or sharp knife to see if they are done: it should come out clean, or with just a few crumbs.
Cream Cheese Icing
1 package Philadelphia cream cheese, or Neufchatel, or something similar
1 stick butter
powdered confectioner’s sugar, equal volume or to taste
1 tsp vanilla
The butter and cheese need to be at room temperature. Use an electric mixer to whip the cream cheese and butter together. Gradually whip in sugar, until the mixture is stiff enough to spread on cupcakes, and tastes like icing. If it gets too stiff, add a tiny bit of milk or cream.
Allow the cupcakes to cool completely before icing them. If it’s a really hot day, or you will be travelling with these, put the iced cupcakes in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set the icing.