Fluffy White Frosting

After the third time I lost the recipe for Fluffy White Frosting, I was too embarrassed to ask my friend Cora’s mom to write it down for me again. I was about 10 years old then–Cora and I were baking buddies–and I’ve been thinking about that frosting ever since. Today I wanted to ice cake without leaving my house to buy confectioners sugar, and I remembered that roux-based frosting, so I googled it (google wasn’t a verb yet when I was 10). I found a recipe right away, and it was as easy to make as to find. It’s as wonderful as I recall–less sugary than butter icing, with a texture like silky whipped cream, and stable enough to hold up on a hot day.

Fluffy White Frosting belongs on a magnificent Southern cake, at least three layers high, slathered on in swirls, and perhaps dusted with coconut. But today I put it on cupcakes, and finally discovered the solution to an age old problem: the amount of icing that looks right on a cupcake is far more than what tastes good. Fluffy White Frosting is less toothachingly sweet than buttercream, so the balance of looks and taste is perfect. Why didn’t I just pick up the phone years ago? That was the age before not just google as a verb but cell phones in every pocket, so I still know my friend's home phone number by heart.

Fluffy White Frosting

  • 1/4 cup flour
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 cup butter, room temperature
  • 1 tsp vanilla

1. Whisk together the flour, sugar and salt in a small saucepan. Whisk in the milk. Cook the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly. Let it just come to a simmer, then turn it down to keep it just below simmering. When it yellows a little, loses some of its opacity, and no longer tastes like raw flour, remove it from the heat. Whisk the mixture with an electric mixer until it cools completely.

2. Cut the butter into little pieces, and add them one at a time with the mixer running until all the butter is incorporated. Continue to mix for 3-5 more minutes, on medium-high speed, until perfectly smooth and very fluffy. Mix in the vanilla.

Bakers Without Borders

Cupcakes are more American than pie; yet they tap into nostalgia and delight that is virtually universal. Marie-Cecile fell in love red velvet while staying in Manhattan last year, and hasn’t had one since. Making cupcakes in France is more challenging than you might think, but not half as hard as finding them.  

Marie-Cecile is my hostess in the Rhone countryside. She’s been serving me meals of tomatoes from her parents’ garden, crackly baguettes, super-local cheeses and exquisite wine. This is my chance to thank her: I’m going to teach her to make cupcakes!

But modifying an American cupcake recipe for a French kitchen is a multilayered challenge. We translate the ingredients, find substitutions for things that aren’t available, convert the measurements to metric, and cut the recipe in half. She has no idea what “baking soda” is until I look up the chemical name, “ah-ha! bicarbonate!” It’s much less common here than baking powder. We can only find red food dye in tiny bottles packaged with other colors. And buttermilk? As far as I can tell it’s not sold at all, so we sour fresh milk with a little vinegar.

With so many conversions, it would be really easy to change a quantity and not notice–until you bake the cakes and they fail. Marie-Cecile is already on the phone boasting to her family about the treats we’re making, while I secretly wring my hands and wish for success. Miraculously, they turn out beautifully on our first attempt! The recipe follows.

 getting started


we didn't have a great mixing bowl, so we improvised to prevent splattering


light and fluffy


...plus one yolk


flour, milk, flour, milk, flour


 about 2/3 full


perfect! it's important to taste before serving


icing on the cake


Marie-Cecile with her cupcakes!



French Red Velvet Cupcakes

makes about 12


210 g flour

3.5 g sodium bicarbonate

23 g unsweetened cocoa

pinch salt


160 mL milk

15 mL cider vinegar

45 mL red food coloring

6 mL vanilla extract


90 g butter

200 g sugar

1 egg plus 1 yolk


Set your ingredients out to allow them to reach room temperature. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Prepare a muffin tin with cupcake liners, or use freestanding aluminum cups lined up on a cookie sheet.

Gently warm the milk until tepid, not hot. Add the vinegar, then the food coloring and vanilla.

Whisk together the flour, bicarbonate, cocoa and salt, eliminating any lumps.

Cream the butter and sugar together with an electric mixer until uniformly light and fluffy. If you are using a hand held mixer, this may take a while (5 to 10 minutes): be patient. The mixture will change texture and color. Then, add the egg and yolk and mix until smooth. 

Stir in the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with two additions of the buttermilk mixture. Mix just until smooth.

Fill the cups about 2/3 full. Bake for 20 minutes, rotating once. Check with a toothpick or sharp knife to see if they are done: it should come out clean, or with just a few crumbs.



Cream Cheese Icing

1 package Philadelphia cream cheese, or Neufchatel, or something similar

1 stick butter

powdered confectioner’s sugar, equal volume or to taste

1 tsp vanilla

The butter and cheese need to be at room temperature. Use an electric mixer to whip the cream cheese and butter together. Gradually whip in sugar, until the mixture is stiff enough to spread on cupcakes, and tastes like icing. If it gets too stiff, add a tiny bit of milk or cream.

Allow the cupcakes to cool completely before icing them. If it’s a really hot day, or you will be travelling with these, put the iced cupcakes in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set the icing.