This is the kind of sauce that has me glancing around in a restaurant to see if anyone will notice me drinking it from the bowl. I can't bear to waste a drop!The Summer Noodles at Ganso were a game changer for me. I don't know what chef Rio puts in his brilliant sauce (I'll ask him if I get the chance), but I make my own version now that is quite pleasing, and serve it with twice as many vegetables.
The days are getting shorter and the calendar page has turned, but the arrival of fall doesn't mean I've stopped craving fresh cool foods. A handful of curly chilled ramen noodles, a generous salad of crisp vegetables and this tangy umami sauce sounds good to me any day of the year. Please don't mind me slurping what's left in the bowl.
Most of these ingredients can be found in a Japanese grocery, or even a lage supermarket. Fresh yuzu fruit is hard to come by, but bottled juice is fine (substitute lemon if you must).
I use homemade tamarind syrup for sweetness (the recipe is in Volume 3 of Sweets & Bitters). If you have time to make some, you can enjoy it in cocktails or simply mixed with seltzer. I've also seen store-bought versions.
Summer Noodle Sauce
- ¼ cup soy sauce
- ¼ cup mirin
- ¼ cup yuzu juice
- 2 Tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola of sunflower
- 2 Tablespoons tamarind syrup (or honey to taste)
- 1 teaspoon sesame oil
- a few drops sriracha or chili oil
Combine all the ingredients in a jar and shake to combine.
Summer Noodles for Two
- 2 packages ramen noodles, fresh or dried
- ½ cup Summer Noodle Sauce
- a few handfulls of whatever vegetables you like: sliced cucmbers, blanched haricot verts, tomato wedges, blanched carrot slices, salad greens, etc.
- soft boiled egg, halved
- 1 tablespoon julienned shiso leaf (or mint)
Cook the ramen noodles to al dente, then shock them in ice water to chill. Drain the noodles, and dress them in the sauce and set asside. Arrange the vegetables in two bowls. Add the noodles to the bowls, then top each with half a soft boiled egg and a big pinch of shiso. Serve immediately.
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Tatsoi and Eggs With Crispy Spring Shallots